Tuesday 27 March 2007

Frozen

Hello from Irkutsk, Siberia.


I have been going non-stop since I left Beijing, and have just returned from 4 days on Olkhon Island, situated on Lake Baikal. I don't have much time to describe everything that has been happening, I need to go get another train soon. Lake Baikal was fantastic, it is hundreds of kilometers long, and holds 20% of the worlds fresh water. It was also frozen, so we drove out to Olkhon Island in a 1960's Russian army van that supposedly was designed to remove bodies from battlefields. The place I stayed had a sled, so later on we hitched that behind the van and drove around on the ice.
I am off to Tomsk tomorrow, and from there will be making Moscow on the 2nd of April. I will be staying with a friend for a while in Moscow and should have time to write a bit more about what has been happening.


Tuesday 13 March 2007

Ni hao Mao!



I have been in Beijing since Friday. Kelly flew in for the weekend to bid me farewell, and left yesterday. Beijing is good, quite different from Shanghai. The first thing that struck me was how wide and flat this city is. There are hardly any tall buildings on the horizon, and the buildings that do shape the skyline are administrative rather than business oriented. The main roads are all several lanes in each direction, and the majority of them run at ground level straight through the city. There are barriers around most of the roads, and it is more common to use a pedestrian underpass than to cross the street. We did some of the standard touristy things, the forbidden city and the great wall. Both of them were very good. The hostel we stayed at organised a tour to an unrenovated section of the wall away from all the tourist shops and crowds.
You will have to forgive the editing + sizes of photos from now on, as I am without any photo tools. I have put a couple more Beijing pictures up on Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/23568308@N00
I am leaving China tomorrow, the K3 train to Ulan Bator leaves at 7:40 from Beijing train station.


Wednesday 7 March 2007

Hong Kong part two


Hong Kong, continued...

We stayed in HK city for a few days, hopping from squalid backpacker places to average guesthouses. Staying in the city was good, as it gave one a feel of the intensity of the place. Hundreds of thousands of people everywhere at any hour of the day or night. Arriving during the new year festival probably contributed to it also, it was busy but definitely not chaotic or crazy. Not like China. We had heard that the government was putting on a massive new years fireworks display in the harbour, so we walked down to the water to check it out.

The fireworks display was spectacular. Well, it sounded spectacular. It sounded like millions of dollars worth of fireworks exploding... Inside a cloud.Unfortunately there was a blanket of fog so thick on the city that we only really got to experience the audio component of the extravaganza.

The cloud was so thick that not even a flash was visable when the shells exploded, only here and there would the periphery of a firework be seen. After a while the crowd started 'oooohing' and 'ahhhing' the loud noises alone.

After a couple of days staying in the city, we decided to indulge our islomania and go stay on Lamma Island. Kelly had stayed there a few years back, and she gave it quite a talking up. It did not disappoint. The island is HK's third largest, at 14 square kilometers, and has around 6000 residents living in a number of villages over the island. There are no cars on the island, so the villages are linked by tracks for bicycles and pedestrians. It is only a 20min ferry ride from HK Central to Lamma Island, however the change is immediately noticeable in the pace of living. After we arrived and found somewhere to stay I went for a walk around the island, getting out of the main village I felt that the city was far behind. The track wound its way out past the standard Chinese tiled apartment buildings and through small villages of ramshackle houses with restaurants where your meal is cooked in the family home. There are a few decent looking beaches on the island, and it is a reasonably popular day outing for HK residents. When evening fell, the island grew much quieter and the tracks I was walking became deserted. Wanting to see the entire island I headed for the most remote corner, where there was the highest mountain.

Many of the villages I passed on the way had vegetable gardens, and nearly every house had a small shrine at its entrance with incense and offerings for the new year.



It was dusk by the time I reached the base of Shan Tel Tong (aka Mt Stenhouse), however having come all this way I thought I would give it a shot. It isn't very high at 353m and I did have a torch with me, so I started climbing.
By the time I was half way up I realised that it would not be easy climbing down holding a torch (should have taken a headlamp), also that fog had obscured the top of the mountain completely.
I made it to the top, to be rewarded with the lovely view below.


On the way down I made it to a fork in the track I had noticed on my ascent. When I first passed it I realised it would be very hard for me to tell which way to go coming down in the dark, so I marked the way I had come with sticks on the ground. Now, you would have thought that this indicated a level of common sense and responsibility. Apparently not. I reached the fork in the path but couldn't help but wonder where the other track led, so instead of taking the marked track I headed off into the rapidly darkening unknown.


Naturally this track evaporated so quickly that I couldn't have gone back to the fork in the road even if I had wanted, so I just headed in a roughly down kind of direction. Most of the descent was done in a half sliding, half scrambling manner, trying to dodge the undergrowth and slow myself down enough that I could stop before any major drops.

I made it to the bottom in one piece, and took a track back to the village.

On a non-HK related note, I now have my Russian visa, and am flying to Beijing on Friday to start my trip across into Russia. Should be fun. Hopefully I will have time to write about the end of the HK trip, and the brief visit to Macau.


I have put more HK photos up on my Flickr site...

Saturday 3 March 2007

Hong Kong, part one...


Above is a panoramic photo, taken (in parts and stitched together) from Victoria Peak, a 552 meter high mountain located just behind the CBD of Hong Kong.

We arrived late in the evening on the first day of the Chinese New Year. After we found a place to stay for the evening and dropped off our bags we headed to Lan Kwai Fong, an entertainment district on Central. The area consists of several streets, each of which is lined with bars, restaurants, clubs and pubs. During the day it is open to vehicular traffic, however in the evening they close the road to cars and the party spills onto the street. The first night we were there it was packed with expats, any HK locals would have been at home with there family for the traditional new years family dinner. It was a good night, the proximity of the venues encouraged much bar hopping, and the road turned pedestrian mall meant the party continued between bars. We had a few drinks in a few bars, then spotted a pharmacy that seemed to disregard the hippocratic aphorism primum non nocere (first of all, do no harm...) as it had a larger selection of beer and ciggarettes than it did medicine! The 'pharmacist' was wearing a white coat, and did have medicines behind him, however he also had a bottle opener on the counter to open your selection from the drinks fridge. The good part of this is that the drinks here were a quater or a third of the price of the drinks at the bars. To keep you posted on global drinks prices, I'll quickly review. Shanghai a local beer would be 2-3 RMB at a store and 40-50 ar a bar, imports (well imported name at least, I think they are still bottled here) would be 4-8 RMB at a store, and around 40-60RMB at a bar. In HK they had a better selection of international beers in than in Shanghai, I did not see any HK beers, so you could call them all imported. They ranged from $5-$10 HK in a store (HK$ is pretty much the same as RMB), and $40-60 in a bar. Happy hour in HK usually halves the price, and many places are quite generous with their definition of an hour. We passed one place that was advertising a 3pm till 10pm happy hour, with the motto 'start your night early!'

Anyway, we purchased a few beer and a few energy drinks / alchopops from the pharmacy and hung out on the street for a bit. I forget what the energy alcho-drink was called, I remember it had one of those generic energy drink names, like 'buzz' or 'slam' or 'NRgizer'. It was quite nice however, a coconut Malibu style flavour.
We ended up at a bar, the name of which slips my mind, dancing to some latin house, and there were two old Chinese characters sipping gin and tonics, hanging out in the DJ booth, and showing the kids how its done on the floor. One of them was wearing an old school suit and hat, and the other had a Ho Chi Minh style long beard and glasses.
We arrived at our room at around five, and realised we had to check out at midday and find another place to stay.